
Images of pure imagination are added to the album "Virtual Reality". They were created with E-on VUE6 software.
http://picasaweb.google.com/gilshamiralbum/VirtualReality

The 10X zoom lens, starting from a relatively 24mm wide up to 240mm, getting this camera inside. Compact cameras with high factor, collapsible, zoom lens are becoming popular now. Samsung was the first with such wide angle.
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2. Sigma DP2
The Sigma DP2 is part of the high end, single focal length lens's compacts. The "high end" is coming from the higher image quality possible with premium, simpler optical design optics. In this group, the Sigma DP2 is special - It is using a relatively larger sensor (Almost DSLR size). More important, it is the only compact camera to use the FOVEON sensor - The only sensor providing a true RGB value from each pixel. Getting, heoretically, higher color resolution.

The Panasonic TZ7 is another example of a powerful zoom lens (12X) inside a compact body. Due to a special lens design (Part of the lens is horizontally embedded inside the body), the lens is not protruding, as with other 10X, or higher zoom, lenses. The Panasonic lens is also wider then usual, starting at 25mm (up to 300mm). It was one of the first compacts with H.264, compact video format, enabled.
The Ricoh GR Digital III is the latest model from a premium compact cameras line starting in the film days. It is a single focal length design with wide open aperture at F1.9 (The highest in compact cameras today). In addition a larger sensor is used here.
The Panasonic LX3 is top of Panasonic's compact cameras and stands against the Canon G11 and the Nikon Coolpix 6000. It is using a larger sensor for lower noise images. The lens aperture is open wide at F2.0 while still providing a moderate zoom: 24-60mm.
Panasonic entered the tough camera segment with this camera - The first tough camera with the compact H.264 video capability.


This canon can be considered as a slimmed down version of the G11. It is much smaller (actually one of the smallest compacts) but using the same sensor of the G11. The lens here is also starting at F2.0, special at this size.
For more remarkable compact cameras, please refer to part 2.





The Nikon 80-400MM F4.5-5.6D AF VR available for both Nikon APS-C (DX) and full frame (FX) DSLR's. It is here for its telephoto zoom range at affordable price and (relatively) portable dimensions.
The Nikon 105mm f/2.8G IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor is a macro lens available for Nikon DX and FX DSLR's. It is here because of the image stabilizer unique for this type of lens (Macro lens).
The Nikon 200-400mm f/4G IF-ED VR AF-S available for Nikon DX (300-600mm) and FX DSLR's. It is here for its zoom range (May get to 900 in DX with 1.5x extender) and the professional constant aperture.
The Nikon 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR is the full frame version (FX) of the 16-85mm (DX) lens. Actually, available first for film cameras and became relevant again when full frame DSLR's appeared.





The Canon EF 28 - 300 mm F3.5 - F5.6 L IS USM is available for Canon full frame DSLR's. It is probably the best super zoom lens available today.
The Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0 L IS USM is available for Canon full frame DSLR's. It is considered to be the best lens in this zoom range. It is a good match to the latest Canon full frames with more then 20Mp. 


Buying a new DSLR (Or already having one) is only half job. Selecting lens (lenses) may be a more complicated task. To keep this item simple, I am referring to most of us - non professionals, photographing as our hobby. This means that we are living on limited budget, so, convenience and lens quality are tradeoffs. In any case, lenses today are delivering acceptable optical performance, even with budget lenses.
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Many consumer and semi pro cameras are available today with a kit lens (Pro cameras are beyond the scope here). For consumer grade cameras, it is usually 3X zoom lens (about 28-80mm in full frame standard). I will not refer to this lens since it is already there. Semi pro cameras may have better kit lenses, few of them will be part of the suggested lens kit.
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The first lens we have to decide will be our prime lens. I assume that hobby photographers are mostly using their cameras as a documentation tools - Taking pictures of their family and places they are travel. We need a single lens to do both (We do not want to carry more then one lens, nor switching them). This lens should be able to provide wide view (For indoor and scenic views) and for portraits, should be able to get close to subjects. To make the story short we need 28-200 or 24-120 (18-135 or 16-80 for APS-C sensors). The 28-200 is better for reaching subjects where the 24-120 is better for scenic views - you should decide which of them is your preference. Also, 24-120 lenses may be slightly more expensive then the 28-200 option. If further price reduction is considered, 28-105 lens is an option (APS-C is 18-70). In any case, the lens should be stabilized (Lens based optical image stabilization) if the camera does not providing this option internally (Sensor based image stabilization).
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Now we have to consider other photographic situations and subject types we would like to handle. I will refer them in a random order. It is up to the photographer preference which one (if any) to invest first.
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Night scenes require a lens which can pass light, as much as possible, to the camera's sensor. Professional photographers are using expensive zoom lenses with low F number (The lens can pass more light then regular ones). Due to a limited budget (And the relatively rare use of such lens), I would suggest to use fixed focal length lens - 50mm F1.8 (35mm in APS-C). This lens is relatively cheap, getting inside the camera a good deal of light and its optical performance is good (Generally, fixed focal length lenses are better the zoom lenses - lower number of optical compromises in their design). The Cons here is the flexibility and the limited wide view. We will have to move ourselves to frame the subject and there is an absolute limitation of how close we can get and how large can be the framed subject. In any case, I suggest to start here and later put more money in a low F number zoom lens if night photography is your passion.
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Next is Close Up or Macro photography. For start, we do not have to invest anything if our prime zoom lens has a Macro capability. This means that the lens can magnify at its Telephoto end (Maximum zoom). Since the minimum distance to the subject is not so close (optical limitation) to total magnification is limited, but you will get the effect. Better is a dedicated Macro lens. They are fixed focal length lenses in the range of 50 to 100 mm. Such lenses get to a zero distance from the subject and get, at least, life size magnification.
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Nature (Birds) and sport photographers will need a higher focal length to get as close as possible to the subject (while still make it comfortable, in the case of birds). The best way (cheapest one) is getting a Telephoto zoom lens with moderate F number. Zoom lens as 75-300 (Translated to 120-450 in APS-C) with F5.6 at the tele end is the optimal choice. Cons are slightly lower sharpness at the image edges and their limited usage to a good daylight. The later is needed to keep the speed high enough to freeze motion.
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For hobby and semi pro photographers the following lens kit can be a good starting point:
1. Prime zoom of 28-200 or 24-120 (18-135 or 16-80 for APS-C). 28-300 (18-200) is also an option.
2. Fixed focal length 50 (35) F1.8 for night. If night scenic is the desired, 28mm (18mm) F2.8 lens is recommended (pricier and slightly less light "friendly").
3. Macro fixed focal length lens.
4. Telephoto zoom lens of 75-300.



